London to Cape Town

Keen to continue honing our off-road skills Don & I headed up the relatively dry riverbed of the Hoanib River from Sesfontein. The mountainous backdrop to the riding was stunning as we crossed desert elephant and lion tracks but unfortunately with no actual sightings. This was challenging stuff as we battled the sand – deep sand, wet sand, quicksand! We had offs, we got stuck and we picked up and dug out each other’s bikes. Suitably sated we decided to head onward only for me to go for the “off-of-the-trip” award, losing control in some sandy grass with both body and bike taking a bit of a battering!

As I finally regained some confidence we reached Swakopmund via Palmwag and the Skeleton Coast on the South Atlantic Ocean, an incredible feeling for us. Being the most populated town we’d been in for some time we decided to spend a couple of days R&R here.

Moving on we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, riding through the Namib Desert with the next stop Sesriem, where we based ourselves to head into the Sand Dune Sea. This is a vast isolated area with massive dunes of red Kalahari sand. Riding in we watched the sunset over the 150m high Dune 45. The following day we admired the dunes by Sossusvlei and saw the sun rise over Dead Vlei pan with Don climbing the huge dune overlooking it – no small feat it has to be said!

Our final Namibian destination was Fish River Canyon, as enormous canyon of huge dimensions which we tried to take in from the Hobas viewpoint in the north.

With 3 weeks in Namibia we’d really enjoyed everything it had to offer – the people, the off-roading, the desert, the mountains, the water, the bush. As always it was a shame to leave but we felt the need to get moving.

So we headed south for the South African border. We chewed up the next 60 miles and rejoined tarmac, leaving behind gravel roads for the last time. Since Ruacana in the very north of the country we’d covered some 1500 miles over gravel, stone, sand and fording the odd river. It was time to get comfortable in the saddle again.

Border formalities were pretty simple and with a “Welcome to South Africa” we blasted our way across the Northern and Western Cape battling ferocious headwinds blowing in from the Atlantic. With 400 miles under our belts the view ahead changed and, picking out Lion’s Head, we realized we were looking at Table Mountain and that Cape Town, our ultimate destination, was now just a whisper away.

Naturally on entering the city we congratulated each other and in next to no time we were sipping on champagne, giving each other big hugs and celebrated by dining at the best restaurant we could find and that would let two now-not-so-smelly bikers in! With some days to spare we took the opportunity to ride to the Cape of Good Hope and do normal things like hang out with friends, Dereck & Camille.

All in all we’ve covered more than 20,000 Km in these 4 months and have never been disappointed by any country we’ve visited. We have certainly enjoyed meeting everyone along the way and those we’ll hopefully continue to stay in touch with.

With the bikes now crated and waiting for their boat ride back to the UK it’s a strange feeling for this trip to be almost over. This has been an incredible safari and actually a privilege to have been able to do. With so much to absorb I’m sure it will take a little time to shift back to the day-to-day!

As for a once in a lifetime experience? Well we’ll just have to see about that!

Thanks for continuing to take an interest in this bloggage. Cheers, D&D

Some Photos

It has come to our attention and maybe to those of you reading this that our time on this great safari is almost up. You may or may not have realized that part of the reason we set out on this endeavour was to raise money for our chosen charity, Cancer Research. This choice of charity is all the more poignant for us as the third amigo for this trip is currently undergoing treatment with plans to make his own safari later in the year - all the best to you Markus.

Timing being what it is and there never being a good time to ask for money, we still do ask that you check the fluff in your pockets and behind the cushions on your sofa to see if there is something there that you can spare.

We accept pennies, pounds, fivers, tenners, scores, monkies, ponies and all higher denominations from the animal kingdom. For any of you who may have made ill-gotten gains from placing bets to see how far we’d get, surely it’s time to share the wealth!

Once ready to unburden yourself just click ok the Cancer Research icon at the side of this page and follow the instructions.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this bloggage so far even if it was only to look at the photos.

Thanks for reading this. Cheers D&D

There is actually a disease control fence (called the red line) stretching from the east to west Namibia.  It divides the real Africa (subsistence farmers) from the developed Africa and the large commercial farms. We wanted to make the most of our last chance to see some great African sights before returning to the materialist world.

Briefly entering Botswana and visiting the Chobe National Park, the highlight was a sundowner boat safari on the Chobe river.  We viewed crocodiles, hippos, many varieties of birds and herds of elephant up close on the river bank.  Chobe has one of the largest elephant populations in Africa, proved by us riding the Chobe N.P. transit road to the Namibian border and being stopped by crossing elephants. There were also buffalos and giraffes on the road.

I had great expectations of Namibia and so we had chosen to spend 3 weeks exploring its splendours.  We started by riding the Caprivi strip sandwiched between Angola and Botswana.  This road was very hot, flat, long and straight.  It afforded us incredible views of huge skies with fluffy white clouds.  We then put the bikes aside in favour of a hire car so we could head to Etosha National Park for a 3 day safari.  The luck was with us as we had unparalleled close encounters with lions, rhinos and herds of elephants.  We also viewed large herds of springbok, zebras and other “plains game”. This was topped off by the scenic landscape of the Etosha Pan.  An immense dry salt pan, which was currently a lagoon due to the recent heavy rains.

Back on the bikes we headed for the Kaokoweld, region. This remote north west part of Namibia borders Angola and is inhabited by the fascinating Himba tribe. We visited Epupa and Ruacana water falls.  Both of these were in full flow as the banks of the Kunune river were swelling to bursting point.  The latter falls allowed us a cheeky visit into Angola.

We stocked us with food and petrol (recently acquired jerry can). and headed for an off road adventure deep into the Kaokoweld.  This normally arid region was green with many of the dry river beds gussying with water.  Riding point the first river crossing I encountered had the bike stuck a couple of meters from the opposite bank.  We had to dig the wheels out of the wet sand with our hands and gave a local boy some amusement for the day.

The track was sandy in sections and rocky in others. Our off road skills were back in action after too many miles on easy tarmac.  Enjoying every bike-picking-up moment I was soon vying for the bike dropping title (Den, your on point next time).  We wild camped in a beautiful grassy acacia woodland and relaxed undiscovered listening to bird life as the sunset.

This is Himba territory and it is a beholding sight to stop by a group of young and beautiful Himba women.  their traditional dress is a leather mini-skirt and standing bare chested as they would have done for centuries (a testament to the failure of the missionaries).  They rub ochre into their skin giving them a red glow and mat their hair into dread locks.  A look around one of their villages had the women in hoots of laughter as we showed them photographs of themselves (long live the digital age).

Out of the bush we headed to Sesfontein and an old German fort.  The road was a reasonable gravel road that we rode enduro style trying to catch the last light.  The ride and the scenery was an experience.

The fort gave us a well earned opportunity to relax by the swimming pool in the heat of the day as we planned our next off road adventure. 

Until the next episode of D & D’s London to Cape Town Safari.

D & D

 

 

Some Photos

 

The first thing that hit me about Malawi when we stopped by the Lake was how chilled the people are here. Lots of interest in the bikes and the journey and helping us at every turn to find whatever it was that the muzungus were incapable of finding. The complication here is people walk up to three deep on both sides of the road making riding somewhat perilous for us and them.

 

We set our sites on staying at the Mushroom Farm, an eco-friendly camp near Livingstonia which meant tackling a serious 4×4 track to get there. Though not long this was technically the hardest road to ride for us since northern Kenya. Hard work but the bikes proved their worth yet again, making it up the riverbed styled road and soaking up the loose rocks, boulders and switchbacks.We spent a great couple of days spent here looking out over Lake Malawi and trekking the short distance to Livingstonia, chatting with the local farmers and seeing the place that missionaries had set up some 100 years ago, helping fight slavery and named in honour of David Livingstone, a man who footsteps we seemed to be following in.

 

An equally testing journey back down the hillside and we were off to find somewhere to stay by Lake Malawi. But the rains had a different idea. We’d known we would hit the rainy season at some point and it definitely found us. Soaked through we decided to try and head away from the inclement weather and ride for the border. This was a cuople of days riding and was made less simple by a 50 foot bridge being washed away. Ever resourceful the locals were making the best of it and manhandled our bikes down and up slopes and somehow across the river (best not to watch!!) for a reasonable arranged fee.

 

We made the border having fallen the wrong side of the law a couple of times along the way (Speeding? Me? Insurance? But no-one told us!) and scooted into Zambia. The rains seeemed to be behind us now but were still showing their effects at the riverside camps we stayed at next to the Luangwa and Zambezi Rivers, these being at the highest levels in many years and whole forest looking to be floating by. By the Luangwa we took in the views over Mozambique on the other side of the the river. On the Zambezi we made river safaris and relished the local life, hippos and elephants we got to see.

 

Ever onward and we head for Livingstone (Yup, him again!!) taking care to not lose our bikes in potholes you could draw water from. This is the home of Victoria Falls and again we were not disappointed. The most water in 50 years kept us mesmerized and absolutely soaked as the spray rains down hot and cold on all viewers. Truly incredible. We walked the whole area and even found a hole in the fence which we snuck through just to try and see it from the Zimbabwe side. Hawkers weren’t impressed with our lack of funds and so blew the whistle on us so we quickly made it back through the fence before we had to explain our presence to Customs men with no passports or cash!

 

Back on the bikes and we were heading to Kasane in Botswana where we met our last challenge trying to cross the Zambezi and Chobe rivers. Levels were too high but after some shrewd negotiating by Don a speedboat was found who fancied the challenge of getting each bike over the rivers. All is possible here and everyone always willing to get involved so with little ado we found ourselves crossing the Zambezi even though no other vehicles could and saying goodbye to another country.

 

As it seems with every blog the people we’ve met have been great and each country holds its own special experiences. For such a short time spent in these two places we have riden away with some great memories again. Cheers.

 

 

Some Photos

BMW Vines came through again (thanks Pete) and shipped two shock absorbers to Nairobi. We would have to clear them through customs but we thought no problem as the Carnets de Passage had worked before. Not this time, after spending all day Friday at the airport, they wanted import duty; we headed back to town shockless.

 

A weekend followed of tasting the infamous Nairobi nightlife.  After much dancing, drinking and watching the sunrise, Sunday was reserved for recovery.  Monday was spent all day in customs but this time we had a more sympathetic official (he was a biker) who undervalued the cost dramatically thus leaving us with a reasonable amount of import duty to pay.

 

With the shocks finally fitted we said our goodbyes to BMW Nairobi and Chris at Jungle Junction, our digs (“you can check out but you can never leave”), Cheers!  We crossed the border into Tanzania and with impressive views of Mount Meru (4566m.) we were happy to be on “the Trip” again.  Unfortunately Mt. Kilimanjaro was shrouded in cloud as we drove past Arusha and Moshi. 

 

Our next stop was the Usambara Mountains close to the coast.  With a landscape of thick lush forests and high escarpments we enjoyed the cool temperatures.  We spent the following day off-roading through interesting villages with great views of the plateau below.  We stopped twice to sit out big thunderstorms, the second changing the dirt road into a mud bath.  Den was happy that I dropped the bike in the red mud, mate you still have the bike dropping title.

 

A short hop and we were on the Indian Ocean near Pangani.  We found a paradise camp site right on the beach and the decision to stay longer was easy.  We shed our clothes in favour of Kikois and flip flops and swam, snorkeled and walked on the deserted beach.  We even bought fish and cooked up a couple of dishes worthy of Michelin stars (well cooked under the stars).

 

Reluctantly leaving the beach for the Southern Highlands of Tanzania, we were surprised by the beauty of this area.  This was an area rising to 1500 meters with forests resembling parts of Europe.  Driving through the Mikumi National Park we were able to see elephants, buffalo, giraffe etc. from the side of the road and the comfort of our motorcycle (no lions luckily).

 

With our last night in Tanzania spent camping close to the Malawian border we reminisced on the fun we had in East Africa.  The three countries offered very different experiences but shared much in common. 

 

Cheers, D & D

 

 

 

Some Photos

We have to start this entry with a huge thank-you to Aunty Chani & Uncle Baldev, the Sirahs who took us in in Kampala like family, fed us very well and were certainly never to be found lacking in beer or whisky. They made our Uganda visit very special and we hope to see you in Kampala again with less rushing on our part. Many, many thanks, D&D

With our rear suspension issues mounting in Nairobi we decided to fly to Uganda. We touched down in Entebbe and before long had arrived at our good friend, Sandeep’s family home in Kampala where we were welcomed by his folks (Aunty & Uncle to us). We immediately felt at home and were based at Chez Sirah for the next week or so, from here venturing out to other parts of Uganda. Missing road travel we got mobile with a 2WD rental and proceeded to punish it over 4WD roads. We headed to the South-West and camped out overlooking Lake Bunyoni, a mountain lake reaching over 900m deep, the second deepest in Africa. From here we drove through the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park with the forest truly living up to its name.

The following morning, with the mist lifting over Buhoma, we set out to track gorillas and found fortune favouring us for a change. Our gorillas had felt the urge for banana trees and so had come out of the forest and were helping themselves in someone’s allotment. We joined them here and spent an incredible hour watching them and in Don’s case being approached and touched by them! The silverback watched proceedings calmly as the rest of the group ate, climbed, nursed, winded, groomed and farted. We’d expected much from this encounter and we weren’t disappointed in the least.

Suitable awe-inspired by this experience we drove north through tea plantation countryside and took our rental on safari through the Queen Elizabeth National Park spotting, amongst other animals, the famous Isasha tree-climbing lions, buffalo, elephants & hippos. Accidently veering off track followed by getting under the bonnet in front of a herd of buffalo to fix the car also brought out the lesser-spotted angry park ranger!

We returned to Kampala via Fort Portal backdropped by the Rwenzori Mountains and handed back a slightly distressed rental (2 flats, cracked rims, new inner tube, welded chassis, superglued headlight, loose battery connection, etc). Somehow Don even managed to get compensation!

No sooner back in Kampala we were off again taking a death-defying matatu taxi to Jinja where we were warmly welcomed by Sandeep’s Uncle Malket and very well looked after. With the generous loan of a Subaru Impreza WRX we explored town and lost ourselves (rallied) in the country roads around Bujagali Falls.

The next day we were armed with a paddle and together with our new rafting buddies, Karen, Laura & Amy we took to the white waters of the Victoria Nile under the guidance of Henry. What a mental experience! Rapids are graded from 1 with 6 being the hardest and we were going to pass through a number of grade 5 rapids with no real experience to speak of. Having been shown the basics we paddled headlong into our first grade 5 called 50-50 & kept the odds balanced by coming through unscathed. Not so fortunate at the Silverback rapids! Whether or not Henry decided it was time for us to get wet, wet we got! Paddles discarded and totally disorientated we were either clinging onto the capsized raft or wondering which way was up & gasping for air. With new respect for life and these rapids we continued down the source of the White Nile covering 30km thoughout the day and ending up at the culmination of the day, a grade 5 called The Bad Place. Henry gave us the options and we opted for the hardest – Bring it on!! And boy did it ever get brought on. Following Henry’s instructions (Hard paddle!! Lean left!! Lean right!!) we rode the heart of The Bad Place and none of us have ever been so terrified. Somehow the raft stayed upright & with much whooping and high-fiving (apologies!!) we celebrated the taming of The Bad Place.

We bussed back to Kampala finishing off threes-up on a boda-boda motorbike taxi (and we were worried about white water rafting!). We spent our final night with Aunty & Uncle and, with the news that our shocks had arrived in Nairobi, flew back to Kenya the following day.

We’d not really known what to expect from Uganda but we’ve walked away with some of the warmest memories of the trip so far. Unequalled hospitality from the Sirah family made it feel like a home from home which was great after a couple of months on the road. Also good people we met in Bwindi and Jinja helped make it special capping it all with getting close to gorillas and riding the torrid rapids of the Nile. For us Uganda definitely earned its title as The Pearl of Africa. A real gem. Cheers, D&D

Some Photos

Crossing into Kenya at Moyale was again painless. With a few Jambos and Asantis we were off on the infamous bad road to Marsabit. With the Tarmac gone we headed across the Sigiso plain and into the real African bush. Turning South we entered the desert with shattered lava rocks covering the desert the going got tougher. Little or no life inhabited this area due to the heat and lack of water. Den was practicing picking up the bike technique. His funiest explanation for falling being stung multiple times by a bee (African Killer Bee possibly?).

After 155 miles of this bone shaking scary road we arrived at Marsabit national park. An oasis rising from the desert to 2000m. A series of volcanic cinder cones covered in pristine forest inhabited by elephants and other wildlife. Arriving at the park gate and wanting to enter on motorcycles we were advised that the elephants may have something to say about that. Discussing the possibilities with the very friendly officer of the Kenyan Wildlife Service, Jack said he would take us into the park on their 7 am patrol.

Setting up camp next to the park gate in a beautiful setting in the forest. We prepared a camp fire and dinner as darkness descended. We then noticed pairs of eyes reflected in our torches. Den reckoned small cats and I thought small deers. To our horror they turned out to be around half a dozen Hyenas. We stoked the camp fire and threw stones at them as we tried to remember David Attenborough’s word on these predators. The fact that they are scavengers did not make our preparations for bed any more relaxed. With big sticks in our tents ready to repel borders we tried to sleep.

Up a ready for the KWS patrol we recounted our hyena story and we laughed at our nocturnal events. Heading to the Marsabit Lodge located on a crater lake surrounded by forest we encountered our first Buffalo and Elephants. We talked with Jack and Mbola of the KWS whilst we watched the wildlife and had Kenyan tea on the lodge terrace. Even though the lodge was closed Jack arranged for us to stay that night with the caretaker.

It was great to speak English with these guys and find out about their passion for conserving Kenya’s wildlife and natural resources. Not always an easy task with the encroachment of the local Samburu tribe’s people.

After a lovely evening by the crater lake we headed off to Isiolo on a worsening road. The corrugation was very hard on our motorbikes and after 90 miles my rear suspension emptied all its oil over the chain. We headed slowly to the only village on this road and waited for a truck to carry the stricken bike to Isiolo 100km away (where the Tarmac resumed). We waited until the next morning to load the bike onto a truck and with Den following behind we set off.

Arriving at Isiolo my smile soon disappeared as I waited for Dennis to arrive. With no mobile phone reception in the region it was an agonizing 10 hour wait until he turned up with his bike also in a pick up truck. His rear suspension had given up the ghost after only 3 miles that morning and then he suffered a front puncture. So with two broken bikes we loaded them both onto a pick up truck and headed to Nairobi past the beautiful scenery of Mount Kenya. Dropping the bikes off at a motorcycle garage we contacted BMW to try and get replacement parts. We then headed to stay at Jungle Junction, a very relaxed overlander’s favourite accomodation set in the grounds of a suburban house and pitched our tents.

Hearing that our motorbikes would not be ready form several days we arranged a wildlife safari in the famous Masai Mara. This was great fun as we spotted many lions, cheetah and many different types of game, the unfortunate ones in the jaws of the big cats. We also had two sightings of the very rare Rhino as well as a large herd of elephants. Completing our safari experience with a dawn balloon ride and champagne breakfast on the African savanna plains, we were very satisfied with the game drives.

We were not so happy with our continuing wait for spare parts and so decided to cut our loses and fly to Kampala rather than go on the motorbikes as originally planned. We would head to our good friend Sandeep’s parents in Kampala and try and track Gorillas.

D & D

Some Photos

Lalibela was our next stop which we decided to fly to from Gonder due to the state of the road and the time we’d lose getting there and away. There’s nothing like flying on a prop plane so our Fokker 50 flight out and in to tiny provincial airports was great.

 

Lalibela (self styled as the 8th Wonder of the World) is famous for it’s churches and the fact that they were mostly carved out of stone – one piece of stone that is! So if you can imagine starting with an outcrop of rock, then carving into it to leave the body of a church and then carving out the inside and decorating it you’ll get some idea of the incredible feat they accomplished here some 1500 years ago. St George and his dragon feature strongly here too with him even getting his own church in town (Bet Giorgis). Being the last to be formed it is also the most visually impressive along with the Monastry of Yemrehanna Kristos built into a cave at Bilbilla.

 

A little churched out and saying goodbye to Judy and Shirley again who were off to do more trekking in the mountains through the TEFSA charity (respect!) we returned to Gonder, saddled up and were back on the road. After so long doing other things it was a real pleasure to be on two wheels again. We took things at a reasonable pace contending with meandering livestock, mules, people and with Don still recovering from a bug he’d picked up.

 

We took in Lake Tana on our B-line for Addis and the next thing we were descending into the Blue Nile Gorge. With the altitude dropping 1300m and the temperature increasing by almost 20°C we found ourselves hot and sweaty at the bottom of the gorge and crossing the Nile for the last time. Onward, upward and nearing Addis a front flat challenged us a little but with that changed (finally!!), some night riding and a good night’s sleep we were heading south again.

 

Jostling for space and position with the trucks and truck carnage at the side of the road we turned right at Mojo and crossed into the Rift Valley. What a change! This is Africa as you always picture it in your mind’s eye with lush green vegetation on deep red soil. We were now in the land of the Rift Valley lakes and spent a night by Lake Langano. On advice we’d got back in Bahir Dar we next headed for Arba Minch on the newly constructed road. At least that was the plan but we should have checked our source as the road was far from complete. A fair bit of off-roading was the order of the day riding the ridge of the Rift though the cold beers at Swayne’s Hotel at the end of it all, looking over Lakes Abayo and Chamo were priceless.

 

Onward to Konso and with some fuel concerns we decided to break for the border and Moyale. Ethiopia had been good to us from the Highlands to the Rift and other than the odd stone-throwing kids, the people were very warm and friendly. The time has flown by and there’s still so much to see here but you can’t see it all and it’s time to head on to Kenya.

Some Photos

The last few miles to the border were more African in character with Tukal mud huts (conical thatched roofed). The altitude was increasing and we could feel the draw of the Ethiopian Highlands.

The border crossing was the easiest so far, no stress and no cost for a change. It seemed everybody was allowed to walk in and out with ease. Of course there was an ancient battle here between the two countries where the Ethiopian King lost his head. Luckily there was no longer any sign of his head or the pole they stuck it on.

The Tarmac finished at the border and we wound our way up through rural villages with waves from the kids. The landscape had turned mountainous and stunningly beautiful. We also had to remember what corners were. Wild camping that evening hidden from the road we only attracted the attention of 3 small boys out herding their livestock. They stood still staring at us until they got bored, which is a long time in Africa.

Another beautiful morning after camping and ready to go into the cool dawn air? No, our first puncture.  So out with the tools and we set about removing the rear wheel. With the usual suspects as an audience we managed the puncture repair surprisingly without incident. 

The road continued to be rough but the scenery got more splendid and we appreciated the sight of trees.  From Gondar we headed north towards the Simien mountains. And so at the end of a very hard day off road we had our second puncture on the same rear.

This time there was no small audience but an unappreciated rabble who spirited away some of my belongings. The tyre was not so painlessly changed and so we sought sanctuary in a locals small holding as the sun went down.  This was to be a very enjoyable experience as we set up camp next to his mud hut and met his wife and kids. The 2 eldest, Je-Jaw and Icho spoke good English so we entertained them with our strange camping gear and cooked our dinner.  They herded there livestock into a section of their large hut in a scene that must not have changed for centuries. We all went to bed.

After a further unsuccessful attempt at the tyre in the morning, I carried the loose wheel up the road and the local tyre bloke fixed it in minutes. Lesson learnt although Den pumping the tyre with a bicycle pump was funny.

Back on the road we hastily arranged transport into the Simien Mountains National Parks as we had to be accompanied by an armed scout.  We left the bikes, repacked, and we were off for 4 days trekking and camping at between 3200 and 4500 meters.

This was to be a liberating experience after the trials and tribulations of the last few days and we meet some great fellow trekkers. The landscape is a dramatic combination of high plateaux and escarpments with 1000 metre drops. So with our heads pounding due to the altitude we plodded upwards passing many troupes of passive Gelada Baboons and roaming Ibex. We remembered why we were on the trip!

Our fellow trekkers were two delightful Scottish ladies, Shirley from Edinburgh and Judy who had come from Alaska where she lived via 5 countries. On a sea plane I think? Shirley’s mule riding skills are now legendary in the mountains. There was also 5 Englishman (Ed, Bob, Rob, and the 2 Daves) doing their annual week adventure holiday away from their families. That meant drinking beer and telling dirty jokes even at 4000 meters, so lots of laughter. Cheers boys! They were already hacking a plan for next year’s week. Horse riding in Patagonia, “City Slickers” the disaster movie version!

We finished our trek with the ascent of Mount Bwahit 4430 meters with great views. As we headed back down to the Chennek camp we spotted the blue public bus that was to be our ride back to Debark.  This bus included tassels and decorations and 3 locals. All the locals would expect the bus to stop for them on the road as we drove past on the windy dirt road. But the drama was only starting.

As we finished our journey a loud bang signalled a problem. The 3 boys leapt into action and gathered tools to replace the blown front tyre. It is not just Den who has punctures.  A small crowd gathered as always and it was nice not to be the centre of attention. The boys swapped the damaged front with one of the double rears and we were off in no time.

Back in Debark we watched the news that London was paralysed by blizzards as we drank beer in the cool evening wearing only T shirts.

Some Photos

 All the blogs and guide books we’d read had told us that one of the greatest things about Sudan is the people. So true!! So far we’ve traversed the country from Wadi Halfa in the very north to Gedaref in the east and everyone, without exception, has been incredibly warm & friendly. A Salam, a handshake & a Tammam? (Good?) is often how our sometimes stretched Arabic conversations start with great interest in the bikes & us upon them.

 

Our 24 hour journey from Aswan found us on the Sak El Naan ferry sailing along Lake Nasser & later waking up to the giant statues of Abu Simbel off the startboard bow. As instructed we’d left our bikes on a barge to arrive the day after the ferry (Insh’allah). We met Ed www.ultimatejourneysouth.co.uk & Tim again and more cycling overlanders (PK, Adrienne, Mark, Sam, Sarah & Christina www.downrightkenya.org ) who’d managed to nab a premium pot on deck and who invited us to join them for the boat ride. These are a very cool bunch & cycling hard for charities haven already ridden 4 months to get to this point & heading on to Nairobi and/or Cape Town.

 

Just getting on the ferry we felt things were changing - Sudanese music was blaring, the food and clothing were markedly different & everything so lively! This really felt like us leaving North Africa and arriving in Black Africa.

 

Naturally the bikes enjoyed their own trip so much they decided to take an extra day in arriving but once in Wadi Halfa & through customs we were off! We chewed up the tarmac & before we knew it the new road had run out and we were off-roading for real. This exact stretch of “no-road” was one of the reasons we’d come this way. It took us a couple of days of riding the pegs to get through the sand (aargh, so unforgiving!!), dirt, stone & gravel but we relished every inch, even the butt-clenching ones of which there were one or two!

 

The first stretch to Dongola took us through the Nubian Desert whilst veering to and away from the Nile. The small mud-brick towns we passed through broke up the barren landscape with just camels and goats for company.

 

Wild camping the first night with our new cycling buddies we continued to desert camp enjoying the endless stars and working those culinary skills (chorizo risotto - none too shabby!!). Overlanders were aplenty now with a Dragoman truck tour, 50 odd stage-racing Tour D’Afrique cyclists and our two very chilled Germans still in the very early stages of their 2 year travel in a state-of-the-art all-terrain vehicle and spanking expresso machine!

 

We turned left and cut east to Kerima, crossing the Bayuda Desert - top draw! Great scenery and a seemingly better class of camel and goat too!

 

From here we barged across the Nile to Ed Damer and got totally caught up in the President’s visit to town. It seemed as if all Sudanis had descended upon this town at that very time with truck after truck overflowing with people smiling, singing & chanting and waving their sticks, tools and the odd rifle.

 

Soaking up some culture & the seering sun we strolled the pyramids of Meroe on our way to Khartoum. Here, having had a few offs in the desert, we took the opportunity to wash 4500 miles of sand & dust off the bikes, fix the bits that needed fixing, hone down the packs and even see in the Year of the Ox.

 

With days starting at first light and finishing not long after dark this has been the sort of travel we’d been looking for. A very hard 40 degree blast across the savannah planes to Gedaref today and tomorrow we head to Gonder in Ethiopia. A whole new chapter and as exciting as that is, it will still be a shame to leave Sudan.

 

 Laters D & D

 

Some Photos